Kitchen Commis

Kokomo Wine Dinner

2009-05-03T23:34:00.004-06:00

Venue is hosting a wine dinner with Kokomo Winery on Tuesday, May 12th @ 6:30 P.M. We are excited to be featuring their wines and have put together a fun menu to accompany them. Make reservations early as availability is becoming slim! Here is a preview of the menu.

Venue Welcomes Kokomo Winery
5 Courses, 5 Wines
May 12th, 2006 6:30 P.M.

Halibut
english peas, leeks, parmigiano reggiano, pickled fennel salad

Rabbit Saddle
fava beans, speck, parsnip puree

Kurobuta Pork Belly
white corn grit cake, anaheim chiles, cilantro, lime

Beef Short Rib
Irish cheddar gnocchi, ramps, morel mushrooms, smoked ham hock demi

Rhubarb
panna cottta, toasted granola, strawberry, vanilla

Prixe Fixe $70

For reservations call 303.477.0477

International Association of Culinary Professionals

2009-03-31T00:03:00.006-06:00

The IACP is hosting their annual conference in Denver this year. I have had the good fortune to be one of the chosen restaurants that the world renowned chefs and restaurateurs of the association will be dining at this week. We had a brief meeting with the Board of Directors earlier this week and have a 7 course menu planned for this Thursday. Some of the famed chefs attending the dinner will be Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz and Dan Barber of Blue Hill @ Stone Barns. I'm incredibly flattered, excited, and anxious to cook for such refined palates and culinary celebrities. Below is the draft tasting menu we have planned for the event:

Venue Welcomes the International Association of Culinary Professionals

Tasting Collection: April 2^nd, 2009

Amuse Bouche

Smoked Pork Hock_ rillette, toast, cracked pepper, granny smith

Watercress_ grapefruit, Idiazabal, hazelnut

Ham Egg & Cheese_ guanciale, quail egg in the hole, ewephoria

Gnocchi Parma_ english pea, morel, pancetta, thyme

Colorado Striped Bass_ cauliflower “risotto”, salsify, leek

Rabbit_ ravioli, buttered carrot puree, sage

Short Rib “Stew”_ mirepoix, condensed tomato, “faux”coccia

Malt_ whopper shrapnel, vanilla malt, condensed milk

Turkish Coffee_ pudding, cardamom, donut

Venue: The Opening

2008-12-08T00:09:00.004-07:00

I'm tired. We opened the doors to the restaurant about a month ago. A lot of sweat, hard work, and long hours have gone in to the opening of this restaurant. And you know what...it's all worth it. We have created a beautiful restaurant. The decor is incredible, designed by Brand New Inc. We have transformed a space that was incredibly small and difficult to work with and made it amazing. I couldn't be happier. Everyone involved in the creation of this place has an incredible passion for what we are doing. It's a great feeling. To be surrounded by like minded individuals who have the desire to work hard, exert themselves like no human should in order to achieve a common goal. Holly Hartnett, the owner, is a prime example of this. She is there every day, open to close, ensuring that every person that walks through our front door is greeted cordially and appreciated as one of our honored guests. My kitchen staff is incredibly loyal, hard working and excited to be a part of what we have created here at Venue. This is just the beginning, but I look forward to an enjoyable and fruitful future here at Venue. I will keep you all up to date with the progress of the restaurant and appreciate your support.

A Natural Progression

2008-10-05T14:38:00.004-06:00

"Discover your divinity, find your unique talent, serve humanity with it, and you can generate all the wealth that you want. When your creative expressions match the needs of your fellow humans, then wealth will spontaneously flow from the unmanifest into the manifest, from the realm of spirit to the world of form."
-Deepak Chopra

I consider myself very fortunate to have realized early on what my passion is, and what I find fulfillment in doing on an every day basis. It can take people years to find what truly makes them happy, and in some cases people never come to realize their true calling. From an early age I was taught the importance of family. My mother, for instance, is an incredibly talented cook. She may not do things in the most conventional manner, but she gets it done. Not only did she value having all of the family together, every night, to enjoy a home cooked meal together, but she emphasized the importance of caring for your ingredients, and understanding preparation. She would involve my brother and two sisters in helping prepare our meal for the evening. Peel these potatoes, clean this lettuce, make this vinaigrette, slice that baguette. Simple tasks, yes, but necessary for the completion of the meal as a whole. She made us feel that we were an integral part of the final product we created, and gave credit to each of us individually that night at the dinner table. It was a feeling of accomplishment, and to this day I have a great appreciation for everything my mother contributed to my progression in becoming a professional chef. In regards to the quote above, it is something that I like to read over and over to myself, a constant reminder to myself that anything is within reach. If you have the passion to succeed, and the confidence in yourself to go after whatever it is that you desire, you can accomplish just about anything. I have been very fortunate in the past few years to have a relatively accelerated career path. I have worked under incredibly talented chefs who I admire on both a personal and professional level. I am incredibly grateful to everyone in my life that has been a part of my progression, and truly appreciate your support.

"He is a professional craftsman. He is a cook. He takes fowl from the air; fish from the waters; fruits, vegetables, and grain from the land; and animals that walk the earth, and through his skills and art transforms the raw product to edible food. He serves to sustain life in man, woman, and child. He has the sacred duty through his efforts and art to sustain and maintain the healthy bodies that god has given us to house our souls."
-14th Century European Guild Manual

It's Always A Pleasure

2008-09-16T01:40:00.003-06:00

To cook for someone who truly appreciates your efforts. Whether it be friends, family, loved ones, or fellow chefs; it's truly gratifying to create food for those who have a true appreciation for the work that you put into it. I had the opportunity this evening to cook for a fellow chef here in Denver, Chef Ian Kleinman of O's Steak & Seafood at the Westin Hotel of Westminster. He and his wife came into the restaurant tonight and allowed me to use my own creative whim to prepare their meal. I have a great respect for Ian considering he is an incredibly talented chef and is the foremost progressive creator of molecular gastronomy here in Denver. He has created a reputation for himself and recieved incredible praise from diners, chefs, and critics alike. Not only was I excited, and truly enjoyed cooking for him, but the fact that he came out of his way to experience my cuisine was quite flattering. As a chef, it is always my goal to raise the bar, go beyond what has already been done, and expand the possibilites of what cuisine can be, and how it can be experienced. I will be moving on from my current position as Chef De Cuisine in the next few weeks and look forward to the upcoming opportunites that are presented to me. I am always in pursuit of progression, and furthering my education and professional knowledge of this crazy profession. Thank you family, thank you friends, thank you colleagues. Cheers to the future.

The Profession: A Summary

2008-08-13T15:17:00.003-06:00

9:00 AM
I pull myself out of bed, pull focus at the time on my phone. 9:00AM. One hour until I have to be at the restaurant. A quick shower and I'm on my bike for the 5 minute ride down the street to work. Unlock the rear gate and grind it along its casters to open the back lot for employees. Walk through the back door, enter the code for the alarm. Turn on the lights, music, hoods, range, ovens, fryer, flat top. Check. First things first, prep list. Get the short ribs seasoned, seared, and in the oven to braise. That will be ready in four hours. Where the fuck is my pantry cook? Nevermind, continue prep list. Start veg stock, cut celery root, portion pork, pork marinade, portion fish. Back to the walk-in, checking seafood order. Clams, mussels, tuna, crab, perfect. No Baramundi? You've got to be kidding me. Fine, sub scallop for tasting menu.

10:30 AM
Ricardo, donde esta Maria?
Lo siento James, Maria es en el hospital con mi nina, es enferma.
No problemo, lo siento. Primero, necisito los pollos por favor.

Set up the line, pull proteins, put a count on bass, heat soups, grab sani for fish spat, tongs, spoons. Mise en place. Lunch special...lunch special... wow we have a lot of tuna for some reason. Seared Ahi, scallion potato "noodles", sake braised leek, sweet soy. Check. Deep breath. Upstairs to the office, lets see, I need to call RSI about inventory and see if my specialty food purveyor can will call me some Piave that I need for the cheese board. He'll bring it by this afternoon, Perfect. The part I hate about my day, office work, paperwork, scheduling, coding invoices, filling out time sheets and gradesheets for my JWU externs. Okay, done, get me out of this 90 degree office. Back downstairs, quick stop at the bar for a glass of water. Into the kitchen.

1:00PM
Slow lunch. I'm okay with that, it's Tuesday and I have to prep the new tasting menu. Produce order at the back door, let's see... strawberries, thyme, marjoram, lemons, carrots, arugula, and...spring mix. Three cases of spring mix? I can't use all of this, I only ordered 3 POUNDS, not three CASES. Take these back, give me a credit, yes, that's fine. I swear to god they can never get my order right. Unload produce in walk in, savoring the 3 minutes I get to spend in a 40 degree environment. Break down cardboard boxes, I hate them, produce is stored in plastic containers, milk crates, lexans. I have to get water on for asparagus, blanch gnocchi, cut fine herbs, what else...oh yeah finish the thai peaches for second course tasting, whip chevre for 1st course, and it looks like I'm using spring mix for the salad since they forget to put it back on the truck, perfect. I'm okay with free food. Bartender comes down to the kitchen: "James, there is some lady here who says she has a meeting with you." Fuck, I completely forgot I made a bogus appointment with Anderson to hear about their new meat and seafood program. I don't have time for this. "Yes, everything looks great, thanks for your time, I'll call you after I've looked over the price sheets. Thanks I really have to get back. Nice to meet you." Okay go away I am already running behind and have completely lost track of where I was at for prep. ASPARAGUS!

4:00 PM
Full dinner crew is here, Ricardo flying through pantry prep faster than anyone. June is butchering whole fish, Casey is straining my veg stock, perfect. Let's get the expo line set up, pink pepper, caper, parmesan, bonito flake, red bean chile, linen napkins, b&bs, EVOO, fill truffle oil. Bartender calls down to inform me the ice machine is completely empty. Fantastic, would have loved to know when it happened two hours ago. "That's fine, make it work for tonight, I'll change out the vent and we should be fine by tomorrow." Chef/Plumber/Electrician/Mediator/Mentor, was this all in the job description? Rummage through back cage to find new filter for ice machine, fuck i'm sweating. Unscrew panels, remove old filter, replace, reset, harvest, there we go. No wonder its not making ice it's 105 fucking degrees outside.

5:00PM
Pre Meal. Review oysters, east coast west coast, cheeses, sorbets, ice creams, custard, um..."oh and we will be grilling scallops for the tasting menu but as of tomorrow I will have pan seared Baramundi, Australia, white flaky flesh, crisp skin, awesome." Happy hour crowd convenes at the bar and on patio. App tickets roll in, oysters for bar 12, calamari on 55. "I need hands right now!" Calamari dying. Jack comes in back door with a 15 pound wheel of Piave. I'd already forgotten. "Thanks Jack that helps me out big, yeah, have a good night, take care." GM comes around corner with news that someone from Food & Wine Mag is on the patio at 52. "Who are they? Do you want me to put something together for them?" Amuse? No problem, 5 minutes. What do we have...the peaches we got today are awesome. Amuse Bouche, to entice the palate, to tantalize the senses, to whet the appetite. Peach. Peel, dust with sugar, brulee. Brillat Savarin, toasted pistachio, brioche. Looks good, wait bring that back, chive.

7:00PM
"Fire 42 course 2. Casey I'm looking for three pork all day, two medium one med rare. Ricky I'll take that heirloom to sell with 42. How long on clams for 55?" Plate, wipe, garnish, run, plate, wipe, garnish, run. Two peach for 23 walking out. "Go lighter on that dressing for those haystack salads okay? Nice tuna, that looks perfect" Plate, wipe, garnish, run. FYI that no butter on 34 seat 3 is a lactose allergy, okay? No butter no cream okay? Got it. Off line for mushroom back up, ribeye, baby basil. Shit, 15 minutes until I have to place my fish order. June how do we look on clams, mussels and bass? 3 pounds clams, 2 bass, plenty of mussels. Okay thank you. Offline for 2 minutes okay Casey? No problem. Deep breath. Check freezer, crawfish, squid, why do we have 6 boxes of squid? Whatever. 6# Tuna, 5# clam, 5# crab special, 8 each bass. got it. "Okay is this table 26? I need lots of hands please!"

10:30PM
Wrap, label, date. Protein in walk in, cover everything on cold well, scrub doors, range, flat top, tables, strain fryer, take out trash. Change out ice for fish, consolidate walk-in, cover brulees, what else what else...produce order. Case of Idahos, 10# Lemon, 3# spinach, CS pears, 4 oz chives. Fuck I haven't eaten anything since 10:00 AM this morning...I'm drained. My head has a dull throb, the sweat on my forehead has soaked through my bandanna, I can hardly pull focus on the notes I've jotted down for tomorrows order. My stomach is it knots, I feel malnourished and look even worse I'm sure. The bags under my eyes darker than they were at the start of the day, my nose stuffed with the remenance of smoke and grease from the grill. My back is fucking killing me and sitting down on an empty keg out back isn't exactly the most comfortable remedy. But hey, I'm off my feet for the first time in 12 hours, better than nothing I guess. Put away order guide, check ovens, "Hey would you be sure to hit that sink before you leave, wrap that bread, put those trays away and make sure we change out that fryer tomorrow morning. Thank you. Okay, everything else looks good, thanks for your help tonight, see you tomorrow." Change back into my jeans and t-shirt and out of my clogs that are killing my feet. Write myself a reminder to call RSI again tomorrow morning to straighten out the accounting issue. Lock the office, hit the lights, lock doors, walk-ins, dry storage. Set alarm, close back gate with the last ounce of energy I've got left. Walk out into the cool breeze that instantly gives me chills from the sweat that has already accumulated on the back of my shirt. I'm beat. I'll be home by midnight, just enough time to have a beer, go to bed, and be back in 9 hours to do it all over again.

Tasting Menu: 8/12/08

2008-08-13T14:58:00.003-06:00

Haystack Salad

Pistachio, Currants, Haystack Chevre, Brioche, Honey Vinaigrette

Grilled Scallop
Crimson Lentil, English Pea, Sweet Corn, Thai Peach Salsa

Tasting Menu 7/29/08: Dessert Course

2008-08-06T16:31:00.002-06:00

Lemon Tart

Toasted Granola, Brown Sugar, Blueberry, Honey Basil Gelato

Colorado Peach Brulee

2008-08-05T23:52:00.003-06:00

Amuse: 8/05/08

Colorado Peach Brulee, Brillat Savarin, Pistachio, Brioche Toast

Cheerio Milk Ice Cream

2008-07-30T20:51:00.005-06:00

One of the elements about cooking that I love is being able to communicate a feeling/emotion/memory with a single bite. When you take a familiar ingredient, or flavor, and alter it in a way that connects with someone in a nostalgic way. As shown in the movie Ratatoille, the single bite of the ratatoille dish brings the egomaniac food critic back to his childhood in France eating something that gave him a sense of safety, of family, of comfort. It broke down his barriers and made him remember the entire reason he is who he is. With that being said, there are hundreds of flavors that I connect with on a personal level, that bring me back to either my childhood or another point in my life. One of them being Honey Nut Cheerios. Eating a bowl of honey nut cheerios every morning, and when I was done, savoring the leftover cereal flavored milk. I was trying to think of a way I could manipulate this flavor sensation and present it in a way that would be entirely unfamiliar, yet itchingly familiar at the same time. Ice cream. The dessert is still being worked out, but I am going to isolate the components of honey nut cheerios and rebuild them into a dessert. Starting with the star, the cheerio milk ice cream. Honey will be on the plate. A tuile or cracker or cookie made from pulverized cheerios, pecans, almonds. There are plenty of possibilities and I can't wait to see the finished product. MMM Cheerios.

Tasting Menu: 7/22/08; First Course

2008-07-21T23:51:00.002-06:00

I love composed salads. Menus always seem to be lacking when it comes to the salad selection. Most chefs overlook this part of the menu and will throw the typical, easy, cop-out salads that people seem to love so much (Caesar, House Salad, Romaine, etc). Salads are so versatile and are such a great, clean start to a meal. This week we are featuring a Grapefruit Arugula Summer Salad for first course. I love it. Grapefruit Segments, Celery Root Rice Wine Vinaigrette, Arugula, Pea Shoots, Radish, Pistachio, Haysteck Chevre, Celery Leaf, Chive Tips. Delicious.

Ingredients: Celery Root

2008-07-21T23:46:00.002-06:00

I received some of the most gorgeous celery root I've ever seen today at work. I'm not a huge fan of cooking with celery, but I can't get enough celery root. It has the true celery flavor without being as delicate as celery stalk and the potential bitterness if overcooked. It's earthy, creamy, underused and under-appreciated in the states. I love it.

Updated Photos

2008-07-16T00:31:00.007-06:00

I didn't realize that I could send the photos from my phone to my e-mail... so I sent a few from the past few months of photos I've taken at the restaurant from various tasting menus. The quality isn't that great but at least you can get the general idea of what I was going for.

Lamb Tenderloin
Cauliflower "Risotto", Celery Root Pea Shoot Salad

Pork Shoulder
Swiss Chard, Cider Poached Apples, Braising Jus

Malt
Chocolate Malt Gelato, Whopper "Shrapnel", White Chocolate Broth

Mojito
Mojito Sorbet, Rum Phyllo, Lime Curd, Crystallized Mint

Tasting Menu: 7/16/08

2008-07-16T00:04:00.005-06:00

Artichoke "Fondue"
Fried Capers, Truffle, Toast Points

Black Kingfish
Corn Succotash, Sweet Pea Emulsion, Pea Shoots

Spiced Apple
Toasted Granola, Brown Sugar, Apple Cardamom Broth, White Chocolate Cherry Gelato

It's Been A While

2008-07-11T13:15:00.002-06:00

It's been over a year now since my last post. Yes, I attribute some of that to laziness, but also the vigorous work schedule I have had over the past 12 months. I'm trying to get back into posting on a more regular basis, and taking more photos in the kitchen to share. Last year I took on a sous chef role at the JW Mariott at Mirepoix restaurant. I took the position to help my friend and colleague Andy(another sous at the same restaurant) while the restaurant was changing concepts and being remodeled by Sage Hospitality. It was a good stepping stone position for me to move into management while still having someone I trusted to show me the ropes along the way. That lasted for about four months until the restaurant closed down for renovation. It is now Second Home Kitchen & Bar. After leaving Mirepoix, I was informed about an opening for Executive Chef at a new restaurant opening early 2008 on South Broadway. I went through multiple interview processes and several cooking demonstrations in order to get the position. It was a lengthy process, but after it was all over I was in the swing of things, designing their menu, kitchen, and doing general consulting work for the restaurant. After months of design, tastings after tastings, I had a mutual difference of opinion with the owners and left the project. It was a lot of hard work that unfortunately didn't pan out into what I wanted it to be. Come December of 2007, I was given a reference by my previous Executive Chef Matt Selby of Vesta Dipping Grill. A member of his DINR(Denver Independent Network of Restaurants) group was looking for a sous chef to bring on board at Black Pearl Restaurant in the Wash Park neighborhood. I interviewed for the position and was hired shortly afterward. After two months as sous chef I filled the role of Chef De Cuisine and became more familiarized with the everday workings of the kitchen, restaurant, and managing a staff. I have been completely involved with the restaurant for the past six months and have had little personal life to speak of. I have been learning a lot along the way about just how intense of a responsibility it is to manage the everydays workings of a professional kitchen. I'm tired, but I know in the end it will all pay off. I will have more photos and updated information about the new and exciting things happening with our ever evolving menu in the near future. Sorry for my absence in posting over the past year. But now I'm back.

Le Pigeon: Portland, Oregon

2007-02-05T02:52:00.000-07:00

Coming Soon: My Trip to Le Pigeon

2006-11-27T12:57:00.000-07:00

Le Pigeon, Portland, Oregon

Corridor 44: Chef Carl Klein

2006-11-23T01:10:00.000-07:00

I had the opportunity to spend a night in the kitchen with Chef Carl Klein of Corridor 44 several weeks ago. Carl and I worked together for a short time at Vesta until he left to take on a sous chef position at their sister restaurant Steuben's. After several months at Steuben's, Carl accepted the executive chef position at Corridor 44 Champagne Bar. Since then, he has re written the menu and created a buzz over the food at Corridor 44. It's not just a champagne bar anymore, but a place to find amazing small plates and meticulously prepared cuisine. For my one night stay in the kitchen, I was able to observe Carl's passion for proper technique and quality ingredients. He takes great pride in his stocks and sauces, including mushroom, duck, pork, lamb, chicken, lobster, veal and others depending on the menu. It is great to see the caliber and quality of food that Carl is preparing here in Denver. I only wish Denver had more restaurants that were up to par with the food that Carl is creating. I respect Carl's cuisine and wish him, and Corridor 44 the best of luck. Here are some photos from my stay at Corridor 44.

Lox Plate

Cheese Plate

Pork Rib Chop

Sauces

Duck

Booklist: Currently Reading

2006-11-16T21:43:00.000-07:00

I'm always in search of new, interesting cookbooks or culinary literature and here are a few books that I've recently purchased and have been enjoying:

Once I have the money, the next book on my wishlist is:

Has anyone found any other books lately that have sparked their interest? If so please tell me about them.

Liquid Creamsicle

2006-11-04T01:50:00.000-07:00

I hate measuring. I think that's part of the reason I would make such a poor pastry chef. I know this, and I don't deny it by any means. I respect the pastry chefs that can be that patient and execute recipes down to the half teaspoon measurement. I spend every day working with savory ingredients. Hot food, hot line, I judge the quality of my food by smell, touch, taste, appearance, etc. It's a very sensual thing for me, and something about standing in front of a scale measuring and weighing ingredients just doesn't do it for me. However, it does bother me that I don't have the same ability to create desserts and other sweet dishes at the same level I do savory ones. It's one of mine, and many other chef's downfalls. To remedy my lack of ability in that department, I've been experimenting with different takes on desserts that I KNOW, things that I grew up eating and enjoying as a kid. For example, I was drinking an orange cream soda the other day, and it reminded me of the orange creamsicles I would eat when I was younger. So I thought to myself, why not make a rendition of that flavor sensation and present it in a different, exciting way? As you can see in the photo, I simply created a shot of orange cream soda that is accompanied with a small spoon of vanilla ice cream. Just drop the ice cream into the shot glass, shoot the whole thing at once, and experience the same mouth feel and flavors as you would with a traditional orange creamsicle. Or better yet, why not take a shot of cream soda with orange sherbet? I've admitted that I'm not much of a pastry chef, but you know what, I'm working on it. And although I could probably fuck up a creme brulee, I'm doing my best to find other ways of communicating those kinds of flavor sensations the only way I know how, by trial and error, whimsical ideas that pop into my head. It is important to be well rounded as a cook, becoming familiar with ALL ingredients and cooking techniques. I'm not as stubborn as I used to be. I'll take the time to measure things now, because I HAVE to in order to progress as a cook.

A Night With The Butcher

2006-10-29T09:41:00.004-07:00

It was last Wednesday evening that I got a call from my friend Trevor of Sir Loin Meat Shoppe. He was in need of an extra set of hands to butcher and fabricate some deer for an order the next day. Seeing as how I have never butchered many game animals, I jumped at the opportunity to help. I arrived at the shop around six o' clock, threw on an apron and was ready to go. I made my way to the walk in fridge where I found Luis pushing deer meat through the grinder for packaging. Next to him I saw whole deer, elk, and other game animals hanging from chains and hooks, just ready to be broken down. As a cook, I am always looking for ways to expand my knowledge of food, cooking, and anything to do with food. Although Wednesday was my day off, I am always willing to help a fellow cook in a time of need. I spent the evening packaging ground deer, learning about the various cuts of venison, and most importantly, how to butcher and fabricate an entire deer. It seems as though every day I spend outside of a kitchen is a day lost. I don't care if I'm getting paid, I just love to work with food and to be constantly learning. I learned a lot from Trevor and Luis that night, and had a great time doing it.
Sir Loin Meat Shoppe
Havana and Jewell
Aurora, CO

Larimer Square: Rioja

2006-10-19T13:34:00.000-06:00

Larimer Square is home to some of Denver's most well known and frequented restaurants. On one short block you have Tamayo,Bistro Vendome, Corridor 44, The Capital Grill, Del Mar Crab House, Samba Room, and Rioja, just to name a few. I had the opportunity to dine at Rioja last night as a late celebration for my birthday last month. Even on a Wednesday night, the place was packed with business types, couples, foodies, and socialites. Had I not made a reservation in advance I would have certainly had to wait for a table. After being seated and placing our drink orders, we were presented with a large platter of assorted breads and biscuits to choose from. Everything from rosemary goat cheese biscuits to lavender sourdough and orange fennel rolls, it was all delicious. The cheese plate appetizer comes with an assortment of four different cheeses with complimentary garnishes, such as spanish cheese with cured chorizo and Italian Robiolo with a sweet citrus chutney. I ordered the grilled Quail entree with spinach ravioli and a red wine glaze. The quail was cooked to perfection, it's juicy flesh and light grilled char making me not want to leave a scrap on the plate. The spinach raviolis were decent, nothing extraordinary, but I felt that the red wine glaze was quite sweet and was a bit overpowering of the other flavors on the plate. Half way through the meal we were presented with a happy birthday card signed by all of the staff, a very nice touch in customer service. After finishing our entrees and browsing the dessert menu, we agreed that none of us had the appetite. That was, of course, until we were presented with a complimentary dessert, another great gesture by the staff. We thanked our server, paid our bill, and made our way to the front of the still bustling restaurant. On our way out, the doorway was still crammed with men in 3 piece suits waiting eagerly to get a table or a seat at the bar. I stepped out into the brisk Denver breeze, admired the lights and decorations hung along Larimer St, and felt content with my experience at Rioja.
Next up, Corridor 44.

Finished Product

2006-10-10T13:51:00.000-06:00

Here is the outcome of the gougere experimentations. I enjoyed the flavor of gruyere and the lightness of the gougeres, but they left my mouth feeling dry. To remedy this, I decided to incorporate a buttery, creamy like cheese in an almost inside out sandwich style. I took gournay cheese, whipped it with heavy cream, and folded in candied pecan bits. Completed with more pecan bits and a drizzle of honey. The finished product ended up being light, savory, creamy, with just a touch of sweetness. I was also trying to create a maple fig glass as garniture but I couldn't get my sugar to solidify to a hard enough state. I am essentially trying to create a thin brittle caramel with the flavors of fig and maple. Any suggestions?

Experimenting with Gougères

2006-10-05T16:31:00.000-06:00

I spent the afternoon fooling around with a few different gougères. I began first by doing the traditional gruyere gougère, which turned out wonderful and airy and delicious. However, I couldn't help but think of all the potential that these small savory pastries have. They can be flavored in any way imaginable, or even used in sweet preparations if desired. The dough takes 5 minutes to prepare and makes for a great quick bread. I plan on experimenting more with this and hopefully creating some flavor and/or spice combinations that please me. I'm considering whipping boursin and incorporating pulverized candied pecans as a filling that I could pipe into the gougeres...perhaps with a drizzle of honey. A work in progress, I'll be sure to post more once I have them perfected. Feel free to give input if you have any ideas for flavor combinations.

The Beauty of the Amuse Bouche

2006-10-04T14:57:00.000-06:00

Amuse: To entertain or occupy in a light, playful, or pleasant manner; to appeal to the sense of humor; to supply amusement or diversion by specially prepared or contrived methods.
Amuse - Bouche: Little bites of food to amuse the mouth, invigorate the palate, whet the appetite.

I have always enjoyed the concept of the Amuse Bouche. It is a pleasant and exciting way to stimulate the palate of your guest before their meal. Not only is it a way to make your guest feel special, it is a great opportunity to experiment with new ideas with food. At the restaurant we present our guests with a different amuse bouche every night. Sometimes these are thought out a day in advance, other times they are created on a whim. It is the whimsical amuse bouches that always seem to excite me. Enticing tastes that are created in the head of the cook, in the moment. The bouche can be elegant, playful, comical, rich, exotic, all depeding on the mood of its creator. For example, a parody of the Denny's Grand Slam Breakfast. Consisting of miniature hash, bite size brioche french toast, pancetta bacon, and of course, one quail egg cooked to order. The amuse bouche is a great way for the chef/cook to play with new ideas and experiment with flavor combinations. I had the opportunity to create the amuse bouche last night and I was quite pleased with its outcome(see photo). I was almost trying to capture the different flavors and textures of an entire cheese plate in one bite. I wanted to taste salt, pepper, the crunch of a toast point, the richness of wine, the creaminess of cheese, and the sweetness of fruit. For this whimsical amuse bouche, I began by poaching asian pears in cabernet with cinnamon and allspice. From there I quartered some fresh figs and creamed a bit of camembert cheese. Utilized some left over sherry reduction and buzzed some walnuts to create a dust. The final result was Black Mission Fig and Poached Pear with Creamed Camembert En Croute with Walnut Dust and Sherry Reduction. The different flavors and textures managed to hit many different parts of my palate. I was pleased with the outcome and received some good feedback. It is days like these that remind me why I truly love the craft of cooking. To see the reaction of someone who has enjoyed your creation, to receive praise and appreciation for your efforts, and to know that you have been able to create a sensation of joy and delight for your guest. Ah, the beauty of the Amuse Bouche.

Alinea : The Future of Fine Dining?

2006-09-29T16:37:00.000-06:00

It was around eight o' clock when the cab dropped me off at 1723 Halsted St in Chicago. I was visiting for the first time and was still unfamiliar with the area. I double checked the note I had jotted in my pocket to make sure I had arrived at the correct address. Sure enough, 1723 was written across the brick front of this seemingly uninviting building. To the right of the address stood two large, black doors. Appearing to be more a service or delivery entrance, I was skeptical to go in. I decided to venture anyway. Beyond the large, fortress like doors was a long hallway that got smaller and smaller, as if out of an Alice in Wonderland scene. At the end of the hallway to my right shone a bright white light. I moved curiously down the hall, anxious to see what was around the corner. As I reached the end and peered around the corner to my right, I heard a swift "woosh" sound. As if out of a sci fi movie, two stainless steel doors had automatically opened to my left. In front of the doors stood a well groomed man in a meticulously pressed suit. "Good evening, welcome to Alinea. Allow me to show you to your table." To be Continued.

Food For Thought

2006-09-28T13:46:00.001-06:00

What is it that drives someone to become a cook? Why would anyone in their right mind want to work 50-80 hours a week, with minimal pay, little appreciation, and intense physical and mental strain? Is it in their DNA? Are they a seperate breed of people? I think so. It is these kind of people that I have chosen to surround myself with on a day to day basis. People who have a true passion for food, cooking, food culture, and the progresssion of good eating. These people have an undeniable drive to express their thoughts and creativity through food, and a sense of joy for sharing it with others. These people are cooks.